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following people are set to be speaking at the International Conference:
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Alastair
Rudin Macleod is the Chairman of Hand & Lock
Alastair comes from a tailoring background as did his father and grandfathers
before him on both sides of the family.
In 1998 he acquired M. Hand & Co Limited, the military embroiderers,
and fell in love with embroidery. A merger took place with S. Lock
in 2001 forming the international brand Hand & Lock. He began
the prestigious, international 'Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery'
(formerly the 'M. Hand Prize for Embroidery') in 2000 with the aim
of promoting the use of hand embroidered surface embellishment within
the fashion and textile industry. The aim is that contemporary design
and fresh approaches can be matched up with the high quality and expertise
expected in the 21st. Century.
The Prize has grown in stature over the years and in 2005 Alastair
commenced a world tour to colleges and universities lecturing on:
1. The origins of embroidery, and its development.
2. Gold and silver wire and military embroidery, and how military
lace and cords are made.
3. An outline of different techniques in hand embroidery, and the
Irish and Cornely machines.
4. A presentation of seminal embroideries eg. The Bayeux Tapestry.
5. A brief history of Hand & Lock est. 1767
6. Aims and details of the 'Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery'.
7. Contemporary embroidery and its future.
He represents Hand & Lock as an associate member of Savile Row
Bespoke Limited the confederation of Savile Row Tailors.
Francois
Lesage 'master embroiderer' of Lesage Paris.
Heir to a long artistic
tradition in the service of luxury and of clothing distinction.
His work has been hugely influential in the changing face of fashion
during the 20th century. His name is associated with the most striking
designers in high fashion: Madeleine Vionnet's purity; the surrealist
extravagance of Elsa Schiaparelli; the perfection of Balenciaga;
and now the sophistication of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel.
His creativity and inventiveness are legendary as he experiments
with new materials to keep on developing his techniques and inventing
new ways to adapt to modern textiles, as well as infusing a new
youth to the most classic materials by treating them in a original
way. Through this invention he has excited the couture designers
for many years. His customers are world famous; we count among them
Lanvin, Givenchy, Dior, the late Yves Saint Laurent, as well as
Calvin Klein, Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler and Jean-Paul Gaultier.
He also undertakes those very rare and special orders for the Church,
such as the robes and mitre of Pope Jean-Paul II.
His work is the object of several exhibitions, notably in New York,
Los Angeles and Tokyo.
Jade
Jagger Designer and Creative Director.
Jade is the only daughter
of Mick and Bianca Jagger, but has developed her own ever stronger brand
and is currently promoting her lifestyle venture concept JEZEBEL, which
fuses music, clothing, and lifestyle through original recordings, remixes,
unplugged sessions, and fashion. She is the creative director for Jade
Jagger for YOO, a high end residential development project started by
John Hitchcox and Philippe Starck, and responsible for hip condos worldwide,
including the Jade NYC in Manhattan's Chelsea area.
In 2006, she finished a ten-year position as Creative Director and jewellery
designer with the high-end English jewellery firm Garrard, to develop
her own very personal range. Always interested in embroidery she brings
her skills in design to full effect when working with clothing and fashion.
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Angus
Howard Cundey MD of Henry Poole & Co (1806), the oldest
company on Savile Row.
He was born in 1937 and
was educated at Framlingham College, Suffolk and did an apprenticeship
at Maison Lanvin, Paris. He also attended the famous Tailor and Cutter
Academy on Gerrard Street. Angus has held many prestigious positions
in the Tailoring world: Past President of the Federation of Merchant
Tailors; Chairman World Congress of Master Tailors 1973; President Master
Tailors Benevolent Association; President Tailors Benevolent Institute,
Livery.Merchant Taylors Company. Director Savile Row Bespoke Association,
Director British Clothing Industries Association.
1806, Pooles had set up
as a military tailor. In 1846, a palatial showroom with a new entrance
opening onto the adjoining street of Savile Row, started the long tradition
of the Savile Row suit. By making a short smoking jacket for the Prince
of Wales in 1860, the now famous Tuxedo was created.
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Anda
Rowland Vice Chairman, Anderson Sheppard. Savile Row Tailors
founded in 1906.
In 2004, Anda turned to
the company her family has owned for almost six decades. She took over
the management of the 100 year old company, Anderson & Sheppard,
as her father had before her. Since then, she's been turning this pillar
of Savile Row into a modern luxury house, ready for the 21st century,
whilst staying true to their traditional heritage and customer base.
She began her career as Marketing Coordinator at the Estée Lauder
Group, after graduating from the LSE, and later, after getting an MBA
at INSEAD (leading European Business School) she took the challenge
of working for France's foremost luxury group, Christian Dior within
LVMH, in Paris.
Anderson & Sheppard remains one of Britain's few pure bespoke tailors,
as they do not manufacturer or license any ready-to-wear or made-to-measure
garments, and everything is Made in England.
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Tony
Glenville Journalist/Writer/Lecturer
Having trained as a fashion
designer, Tony has spent most of his 40 year career as a consultant
to the fashion industry. When a star needs red carpet advice, Tony acts
as wardrobe consultant. When Haute Couture collections show, Tony is
there behind the scenes with the couturiers in their ateliers, and on
the coveted front row. Here he records those details of what it is,
that makes the worlds most expensive clothes.
His articles are published around the world for all the major news and
fashion journals and newspapers. He is author to Top to Toe and co -
author of Cutting Edge. In between times, he makes time to share this
passion and knowledge by lecturing at the London College of Fashion,
Saint Martins and is Course Leader for Fashion Promotions at the University
College of Creative Arts Rochester.
Bruce
Oldfield Couturier and Fashion Designer
From the very beginning
Bruce met with success. Right after he attended the St Martin's School
of Art in 1973, he designed for Henri Bendel NY. He started his ready-to-wear
label in 1975 offering collections for European and American stores.
He began making couture clothes in 1978 for individual clients and
from 1980 for the late Diana, Princess of Wales. In 1984 he opened
his first shop selling ready-to-wear and couture to an international
clientele.
He has designed outfits for Jerry Hall, Barbara Streisand, Catherine
Zeta-Jones, Diana Ross and as well as other leading members of the
British and European aristocracy. In 1990, he was awarded an OBE,
for services to the British fashion industry. He has Honorary Fellowships
to the Royal College of Art and the Universities of Durham and Sheffield,
was Governor of The London Institute (1999-2001) and Trustee of the
Royal Academy of Arts (2000-2002). In December 2001, Oldfield received
an Honorary Doctorate of Civil Law (Hon DCL) from the University of
Northumbria at Newcastle and in 2005 an Honorary Doctorate from the
University of Central England. He is also a Vice President of Barnardo's,
the childrens' charity that raised him as a child.
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Carne
Griffiths Director and Design Director Hand & Lock
Having trained in illustration
and animation at KIAD Maidstone, and after working for the trimmings
company Emerson Nelmes in East London, Carne undertook a two year
apprenticeship to train in traditional embroidery techniques and preparings
under the exacting eye of Ken Miles, draughtsman for over 50 years
at M Hand & Company, suppliers of military accoutrements and embroidery.
His innate talent and passion for drawing accompanied by the type
of training that can only really be given through an apprenticeship
has provided a solid platform for embroidery design. On the merger
of S Lock with M Hand, Hand & Lock was to give Carne a Directorship
of the company, and an opening into the couture and bespoke fashion
world. His designs for fashion pushes the boundaries and the expectations
of what gold wire embroidery is, whilst borrowing heavily from techniques
which are long forgotten by many but are readily accessible through
the much loved Hand & Lock archive. Among his many interests Carne
has a passion for Outsider art, Animation, Music, and Cycling.
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Polly
Kenny Senior Lecturer Surface Textiles London College of Fashion,
University of the Arts, London. BA (Hons) Textiles/Fashion, MA Fashion
Studies, member of the Higher Education Academy.
Her recent research explores
traditional embroidery techniques through new technology producing contemporary
womenswear and accessories, incorporating surface textiles and articulates
ideas emerging in response to memory and the exploration of the archive.
Recent work exhibited in:
" eCHO international collaborative fashion show and exhibition
" Queensland University of Technology Australia 2003
" 3rd International Biennial Square-Carré-Cuadrado, Venezuela,
2004
" the Surface Design Association Conference 2005 Uncovering the
Surface fashion event
" Suave 2 international jewellery exhibition.
Within the subject area, pedagogic interests inform the development
of digital resources and blended learning.
" Fashioning the Future - student work"
From sketch book to final show; how LCF students integrate all available
surface textile techniques, mixing and pushing old and new technologies
in unusual ways, to create their final collections.
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Jonathan Anderson
Designer
Jonathan has worked as
a visual merchandiser for Prada in London and as a stylist for artists
such as Rufus Wainwright, whose video clip for 'Rules and Regulations'
he most recently styled. Currently on his third season, Irishman Jonathan
Anderson is the designer behind the label J.W. Anderson. He graduated
from the London College of Fashion in 2007. Heavily influenced by his
childhood in Ireland and his drama studies in the USA, the label's theatrical
and evocative style uses fantastical stories and fabulous references
from the past to create J.W. Anderson's extraordinarily beautiful, textural
and sculptural menswear and bold ornaments. The use of a wide variety
of textile arts has seen collaborations with Irish knitting, and with
bespoke embroiderers Hand & Lock as the label pushes traditional
skills to new dimensions. Following the success of their debut collection
'The Death of a Naturalist' for spring/summer 2008, J.W. Anderson's
sophomore collection 'The Rattle Bag' for autumn/winter 2008 was presented
at London Fashion Week in February 2008 as an installation at the luxury
fashion boutique twosee. The critically acclaimed collection, which
showed a highly individual new brand of menswear and jewellery, secured
J.W. Anderson's place on the fashion map.
J.W. Anderson is carried
by stockists in Europe, North America and Asia.
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Anthea
Godfrey Principal Lecturer. Postgraduate portfolio-London College
of Fashion. U.A.L and Embroiderers Guild Present Chairman - Emeritus
Member, ExVice Chairman,5 years; Ex Chairman-6 years. F.R.S.A - Fellow
of the Royal Society of Arts . Member-Textile Society - B.A. Hons -
Textiles. London University. Goldsmiths College A.T.D - Textiles. London
University. Goldsmiths College
As an active and well known embroidery
lecturer and examiner, Anthea Godfrey has a detailed and passionate
understanding of the embroidery world from academia to couture. Her
research includes:
" Couture Embroidery- 'Couture Embroidery '……. Worth
onwards'
" Life and work of Margaret Nicholson-Or Nue, beading and metal
threadwork
" The effects of mirage on camouflage in Kenya---print, bead fringing
and or nue.
Teaching Experience
Course Director - A.B.C Diploma in Foundation Studies Art and Design
Mentor - 'Breakaway
Mentor/Director - '4x4'-Professional Textile Group
Mentor - 'E.A.S.T'-East Anglian Stitched Textiile Group
Mentor - Embroiderers Guild Lincold Group
Mentor - Letchworth Settlement Centre- Textiles Group-2007-
Curator - DIDACTEX-Professional H.ETextile Tutors Exhibiting Group
Tutor - Embroiderers Guild -New Zealand
Work in progress - Writing M.A in Surface Pattern course, for validation.
U.A.L start date Oct 2007
Professional/Industrial Experience
City and Guild - External Verifier-U.K. N.Z. U.S.A
A.B.C - External Examiner F.A.D
University of East Anglia - BA Hons External Examiner
BUAC - B.A.Hons External Examiner
Consultant - Knitting and Stitching Show
Lecturer - Embroiderers Guild; Craft University-Denmark; University
of Art and Design Finland
Textile Society - Te Papa Museum Wellington New Zealand
Judge - Pfaff Emb Competition-1996; EEC Textile Competition-1996; Hand
and Lock International Competition Judge-ongoing; Fashion Awareness
Direct Fashion Competition judge-2005; Nairobi Fashion Competition -International
Judge-2005/6
Academic experience
Secondary- 13 years- asst art teacher and pastoral head
LCF - B.Tec Diploma in Fashion Embroidery; B.Tec Diploma in Fashion;
B.Tec H.N.C Embroidery
City and Guild Embroidery Part 1 and 2
A.B.C. Diploma in Foundation Studies art and Design
Examiner AEB; Chief Examiner-AEB; City and Guild External verifier;
'O' and 'A' level Embroidery;
Part 1 and 2---- Embroidery. Costume, Patchwork and Quilting, Decorative
Effects, Machine Embroidery, Miniatures, Fashion, Sewing Techniques,
Tailoring, Lingerie
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